Scarpa Quantic – Excellent in Steep Terrain

Kyle Juszczyk

 

Intro

The Scarpa Quantic $158 is a new shoe that is designed to increase climber performance across many disciplines indoors and out. I picked up a pair with the intention of using them for gym climbing, outdoor bouldering, and maybe some single pitch sport climbing.

I’ve put them to the test and am pretty stoked on them. I found that the Quantic does an excellent job transferring power to small holds and staying latched to the rock in overhanging terrain. The shoes are light and have a comfortable fit. 

Scarpa Quantic Review

Sizing

I usually wear between a 40 and 41 in most brands’ climbing shoes, so I decided on a 40.5 for the Quantic. They ended up being sized well for bouldering and gym climbing, just as I had hoped. They stretched a fair bit the first day I used them.

However, that was my first day with tight shoes in a while, so my feet were likely breaking into the shoe as well. The toebox width is perfect for me, and allows my foot to spread out naturally. If someone has narrow feet, I’m sure they could crank down the strap that’s right on the toebox to take up any extra room. On the flipside, there’s a ton of range with the strap, so I would imagine they could accommodate wider feet too. 

 

Design

The down turn shape is present across the entire sole, but most importantly, culminates in a subtle hook at the toe. This last little bonus downturn is what gives the user the ability to engage positive feet in overhanging terrain to pull their bodyweight into the wall and off their hands. The same feature does an excellent job of creating more surface contact with small, slopey feet in vertical terrain. 

Quantic Climbing Shoe

 

I would call these shoes medium stiff, but really, they have varying degrees of rigidity throughout the shoe. The toebox is nice and solid, which transfers power super well to the toe. I was psyched on how they glued onto tiny little dishes and divots in the rock. When toeing holds, the edge deforms enough to shape to holds, but doesn’t roll or smear off. The flexible midsole of the shoe allows one to point toes and drive, or open up their foot and relax on sloping holds. 

The material is light, but feels super resilient. They’re my lightest climbing shoe by far. In my pursuit of gram shaving, I’ve never thought to save weight in my shoes. They definitely feel nimble, and it seems like it takes less effort to swing my feet around. 

Uses

As I’ve mentioned, they’re awesome for overhanging terrain and routes with small feet. The only area the Quantic left something to be desired was in vertical or slabby terrain with incut foot holds. To be fair, any soft shoe would have the same deficit.

I don’t often use a softer shoe like the Quantic for climbing where I have stand on my feet for most moves because it definitely takes a little more effort and thought to keep my feet rigid and on holds properly. There’s no such thing as a shoe that does everything well. That said, the Quantic performs excellently as a bouldering and single-pitch shoe in steep terrain. If paired with a stiff shoe for vertical routes they could set someone up with complete quiver. 

Final Thoughts

Scarpa did a great job with the Quantic. They performed excellently in steep terrain, fit comfortably, and seem like they’ll last a good while. If someone is looking for a shoe that will give them an edge in overhanging terrain, but doesn’t want too many shoes in their quiver, the Quantic will be a stellar choice for them. You can’t beat the price either.

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Kyle Juszczyk

Kyle grew up in Iowa and after high school ditched the midwest to begin college at Western State Colorado University and start guiding in the summers. 

Kyle says he spent his time at Western climbing, snowboarding, volunteering on the rescue team, and instructing for the outdoor program. He claims if he had spent any less time actually in class he certainly would not have graduated. Kyle’s time with the Western Mountain Rescue Team was extremely formative and revealed his passion for wilderness search and rescue (SAR). He made it his goal to make a career out of SAR. Kyle is well on his way to achieving his goal and currently works as a Ski Patroller in Colorado and a Climbing Ranger in the Pacific NorthWest.

Kyle’s certifications include WEMT-IV, Avalanche Pro 1, and AMGA Single Pitch Instructor. Kyle is a certified AIARE instructor and teaches Recreational Level 1, Level 2, and Partner Rescue courses. He is also an Apprentice Rock and Ski Guide through the AMGA

 

When Kyle has free time he climbs and skis. He’s taken the hard way to the top of El Capitan and the steep way down peaks in Colorado and Washington.

Kyle’s jobs allow or force him (depending on the weather) to work 200 days a year outside. He’s constantly testing gear in all conditions and refining his setups to make work and play easier, faster, and more fun.